First Rod Build

« **on:** 15/08/2011 at 19:12 »

Ok, tool making aside I've finally started to get onto the rod build proper.

Handle shaped and reamed, reel seat reamed (ok, so it came with a perfect I.D.).

ready for the glue

Iain

« **Reply #1 on:** 15/08/2011 at 19:31 »

Looking good Iain

Jim

« **Reply #2 on:** 15/08/2011 at 19:33 »

Looks shit hot

« **Reply #3 on:** 16/08/2011 at 16:47 »

Nice....

You must be satisfied with that so far.

The Bard.

« **Reply #4 on:** 19/08/2011 at 02:17 »

looking good. That's all the easy bits done though....

« **Reply #5 on:** 19/08/2011 at 20:47 »

Thanks Matt - that's encouraging

Iain

« **Reply #6 on:** 22/08/2011 at 20:44 »

Had a couple of hours yesterday so the handle & reel seat are now glued :z

I wasn't sure of the Sage spacings due to reading observations on the net, the fact that the distances are to the extremity of the lower foot of an American snake (maybe getting too anal but I'm using different rings) and because I also moved the stripper ring slightly closer to hand so I decided to use an online calculator to re-adjust the spacings. I then threaded a line through them, gave it a bend and checked the transition of the line - looks fine to me

Today I whipped the section which butts up against the winding check, wrote on my personalised schpeel - whipped either side of that and added a metalic trim at a point 20" from the butt.

Probably whip all the rings on next

Iain

« **Reply #7 on:** 22/08/2011 at 20:56 »

nice work. Was the schpeel by hand?

How did the rig work for whipping on the winding check etc?

« **Reply #8 on:** 22/08/2011 at 21:09 »

Matt,

the writing was by hand - reasonably happy with it but couldn't get a finer tipped pen in town (could have went online I suppose).

The jig is super, very easy to use and the tension is I think spot on - obviously if you are turning the blank backwards the back tension has to be induced at the spool by ones self but that's fine.

Just hope the epoxy doesn't affect the white ink (removing or thinning it etc.)

I'm really getting impatient and need a fish on it pronto! Time to relax

Iain

« **Reply #9 on:** 22/08/2011 at 21:34 »

I tried a pen on a broken rod section and didn't like it so used a very fine brush and enamel paint like what you used to use on your model planes in the olden days.... Wipes off with turps and left to dry doesn't affect the paint.

« **Reply #10 on:** 23/08/2011 at 22:14 »

rod now completely whipped

couple of sticky bits but reasonably pleased with it.

Epoxy on order

Iain

« **Reply #11 on:** 24/08/2011 at 10:36 »

Epoxying 'signature'

Can I epoxy over my rod signature (written with a white pen - can't recall the paint type at the mo) or should this be sealed with some form of protective rod finish first?

Anywhere local for purchasing denatured alcahol?

Thanks

Iain

« **Reply #12 on:** 24/08/2011 at 10:42 »

Is common all garden DIY, B&Q methylated spirit denatured alcohol?

Iain

« **Reply #13 on:** 24/08/2011 at 10:55 »

Quote from: Goolager on 24/08/2011 at 10:42

Am I a muppet?

yes.

« **Reply #14 on:** 24/08/2011 at 11:14 »

Why are you looking for a degreaser now?

Should have done it before whipping

Meths smells bad, I like a quick wipe with brake cleaner.
Make it quick though, it stings

Sandy

« **Reply #15 on:** 24/08/2011 at 16:13 »

Degreasing - no problems

Meths if for drinking once I F*** up the epoxying

It's for tidying up if there is a bit of nastiness with the epoxy, I take it that's what to use to clean the blank if some gets where it shouldn't?

Iain

Brake cleaner? do your rods shatter on the backcast?

« **Reply #16 on:** 24/08/2011 at 16:13 »

Try the Chemist for your DA...they normally have to order it though if you want 500ml. The last lot i got was around £5.

If you are wanting to epoxy over the writing and you are not sure what the ink is made from, just put on a couple of coats of thread colour preserver. This seals the writing before the epoxy goes on.

For the future, get yourself a "mapping pen" from a craft shop, along with a bottle of white ink. The mapping pen is just a simple fine nib you dip into the ink. Its perfect for writig on rods. You can use it with paint too.

« **Reply #17 on:** 24/08/2011 at 16:15 »

Quote from: Goolager on 24/08/2011 at 16:13

It's for tidying up if there is a bit of nastiness with the epoxy,

Acetone is what you want for that...again the chemists.

« **Reply #18 on:** 29/08/2011 at 21:27 »

I'm paceing like an expectant father.........................1st 2 sections epoxied and currently turning

Question, The flexi coat lite was preheated in the airing cupboard, 2.5 of each mixed (under lamps) and must have been given easily 5 min's plus but there was not the 'marbling then clear' as described in the Flexi Coat youtube 'how we mix it' video???

The expoxy that is left in the foil is stiffening up so I was wondering why that was? Have I flipped up?

Iain

« **Reply #19 on:** 30/08/2011 at 01:14 »

Foil? You're not meant to be injecting the stuff

Why are the mixing cups, brushes and stirring stick still in the packet?
I'm confused

How did you mix the epoxy? It always marbles when you start to stir it
And then it goes clear and is ready to use. Their definition of marbling looks like
You've added the tiniest drop of silver paint to the mix, a bit like a liquid soap. It's hard to describe
But it should mix to clear in about 2 mins by hand, then it's all about air bubbles, that where
The warm helps out, blow on the gently to get them to pop

Sandy

« **Reply #20 on:** 30/08/2011 at 09:37 »

Quote

Why are the mixing cups, brushes and stirring stick still in the packet?
I'm confused

Don't be confused Sandy, when I purchased the epoxy I thought I'd get some spare brushes and cups - F*** me I've loads of them now! that's what you see in the packet. Anyway stop ogling me perifferies.

I mixed it in an approved cup with an approved stirrer. Possibly did see a slight cloudyness but it didn't look as 'milk going into coffee in the adverts swirliness' as shown in the video, either way the 1st coat looks fine, there is one slight foreign spot on a section but it will be sliced and diced when I apply the final coat tonight. Green thread unpreserved dries a nice deep dark shade - cool against the blank.

Fingers crosses Brownies by the weekend!
Iain

« **Reply #21 on:** 30/08/2011 at 11:43 »

Looking good Iain

Thanks, just what I needed to get me started on my next Project, the "Haddo Special"
a Barrio LC905.

Sorry about poor photography, new camera not arrived yet.

Alex

« **Reply #22 on:** 30/08/2011 at 15:16 »

Alex,
Is that a Danielsson Midge in your avatar? If so how do you find it smoothness wise? I've one for the 2wt and it feels, well, like using a washing machine when you've forgotten to remove the transit brackets.

Iain

« **Reply #23 on:** 30/08/2011 at 15:24 »

Quote from: Goolager on 30/08/2011 at 15:16

Alex,
Is that a Danielsson Midge in your avatar? If so how do you find it smoothness wise? I've one for the 2wt and it feels, well, like using a washing machine when you've forgotten to remove the transit brackets.

Iain

Hi Iain

Yes it is a Danielsson Midge, not mine however, it belongs to Andre, the guy in South Africa
who has the "Elandspad Special" I built for him, he says it is like a watch & i've
seen him cast with it & it is beautiful and smooth.

Alex

« **Reply #24 on:** 30/08/2011 at 21:32 »

Alex,

Is that your credit cards on the table in the second photo? I've just zoomed in on the numbers and just bought some new waders on the net - cheers

Second coat of epoxy on the 1st 2 sections...............really piddled off I didn't get another rod turner as that could be all the sections epoxied by now

will definately get another one for the next rod (that's if this one is a success in operation).

By the way Sandy that marbling effect was seen tonight when mixing, must have been looking for too drastic a clouding last time

Iain