[Mike Barrio]

Any more folks ............................................

[Matt Henderson]

I did one in october but still haven't got round to posting it. Must get the finger out!

[Mike Barrio]

"PDScott" Peter ....... one of your CDC patterns using the magic tool would be great, if you fancy?

Cheers
Mike

[PDScott]

Having been pressured by Mike, here is my first attempt at an SBS. This is a dry tied with CDC using the Petitjean Magic Tool. Anyone who has used one will tell you that two hands are required therefore using a camera at the same time was a problem and as much CDC landed on the floor as on the fly. Anyhow enough of my excuses!
Tie on thread as normal to the tip of the hook

Tie in a few tail fibres - I have used coc de leon and I like to take one wrap of thread under the fibres to hold them up.


The next stage involves selecting CDC feathers of the same size and stroking the fibres back until they are at right angles to the stem.The feathers must all lie with the stems aligned and all concave? (all curving up!)


The next stage involves using the sprung clip part of the Magic Tool. The stem of the feathers are held at each end and pulled down through the tool. This cause the fibres to stand up away from the tool.





You now snip off the ens of the feathers (stems and tips)



You now take the second part of the Magic Tool kit (similar to an old bulldog clip) and using it to grip the tips of the feathers, you remove the feathers from the sprung clip. This allows you to cut the stems from the feathers leaving only the fibres in the clip.




At this stage you can get back to the fly (remember it?) and flatten out the thread to enable you to split it with a sharp dubbing needle. Some threads work much better than others - it all depends on how they are made. Once the thread is split you insert the fibres into the split (hoping that none fly away when you reach for the camera) and when the two sides close on the fibres you can open the clip to release the fibres.

At this stage you must secure the fibres in the thread by spinning the bobbin holder. This twists the thread, causing the fibres to spin out at right angles to the thread. The thread is wound back onto the bobbin ensuring the thread does not unwind.



Now wind the "hackle" up to the eye of the hook, pulling the fibres back as you go.

 

Whip finish after tying a head.


The finished fly is a bit "scruffy" and needs to be trimmed.


After a trim the fishes eye view is like this.


This fly was tied with natural CDC. By combining various colours, you can change the look of the fly - this one was a combination of black and yellow.


It would appear to be a long-winded process but once you get the hang of it, it is actually very effective. I generally use 4 feathers per fly and find that they float with little difficulty - often with the application of some CDC oil. I believe there are videos of Marc Petitjean on Youtube if you want to see the expert at work!

I hope that this makes sense.
All the best
Peter

[Mike Barrio]

Great stuff Peter ..... excellent step by step

Thanks for posting!
Cheers
Mike

[Jim Eddie]

Great SBS Peter  Well done

 

Jim

[Iain Goolager]

Hi Peter,

Yup , nice one indeed I've thought about the MP MT before but don't tie enough to justify it.

well done again.

Iain

[Mike Barrio]

Have you seen this one Peter? ....... nice

http://www.rackelhanen.se/eng/10345.htm

Best wishes
Mike

[Barry Robertson]

Nice step by step Peter, intresting tool 

[Mike Barrio]

C'mon "Kevin Muir", would be great to see a SBS from you!

Not much time left for this month's entries folks

Cheers
Mike

[Steven Sinclair]

I am trying to convince Sinclair senior to participate.

Hopefully he will put something together in time

[Kev Danby]

Excuse the photos but here goes. It's basic but a first attempt. This is a Buzzer I have fished the last few outings and has been successful. This is not a skinny buzzer but one that has had a few pies and perhaps not tied the usual way. Using the pearly material as the body this seems to give a glow to the fly you don't get with tying the fly the more conventional way by using the pearly material as the rib. I hope all this makes sense and SBS are a bit more tricky than they look

Materials

Hook Kamasan B160 short shank this is the size 10
Thread black
Body packaging from a bath bomb (the missus'es) Pearl tinsel would work, the bath bomb wrapping seems to have more of a sheen than tinsel.
Cheeks hends fluro orange cheeks (got this from GAC) or goose biots

Tie in the thread near the eye and leave a longish tag I find at this point it helps to thread the tag through the eye. Tie in the pearly material and wrap thread down to the bend of the hook. The thread on the bobbin is left at the base (bend) of the hook




Wrap pearly material up the hook and tie off using the tag




Form the rib using the tying thread. For the rib tie in three to four close turns then rib further up repeating the process until you reach the thorax area





Tie in the cheeks and build up the thorax, then fold the cheeks to the eye and tie off.


 
Trim the cheeks build the head with a few turns of thread and whip finish. Varnish the fly.



A variation is the okey dokey but this uses a copper rib and you take the thread back to the eye (not tag required)

[Matt Henderson]

The Monkey

A wee variant on a very commong tube, generally suggested as being a spring tube but I know some people have success on them all year round. 

Body:22mm brass bottle tube with mylar tubing body I've chosen an irradescent one but silver would be fine. 
Hackle: yellow schlappen
Underwing: artic fox black
Overwing: black artic fox, with peacock herl
Eyes: jungle cock eyes
Head: clear and black varnish


First step select your tube, I've chosen a 22mm bottle tube, primarily because they are heavier than the same length of copper slipstream tubing. 



Put your lining tube through the tube



Burr the end of the tubing by holding it close to a lighter it takes a bit of practise too close and tubing will burn and be ruined and not close enough and it won't melt at all.



Trim the other end of the lining tube and then burr it so that it fits the length of the tube snugly.  Then fit the extension tubing and pop it in the vice. 

Measure up how much of the mylar tubing that you need approximately the same length as the tube. 



Trim off the length and slide it over the tube. 



Tie in your tieing thread and bind down the start of the mylar tubing. 



Catch in a yellow schlappen hackle by the tip. 



Double the hackle by stroking the fibres back so that both sets of fibres and pointing in the same direction. 



Make two turns of the hackle and then tie it off. 



Trim off the excess and tidy it up.



Take your bunch of artcic fox and stroke out the section that you want and trim it off. 



Take a comb and get rid of the under fur. 



Tie in the artic fox and make it just every so slightly longer than the hackle.  Flatten it out so that covers most of the top of the tube and down the sides a wee bit too.



Tie in a second bunch of artic fox about twice the length of the first peice.  This time don't flatten it down so that it stays just on top of the tube and not down the sides. 




Tie in two peacock herl strands either side of the wing.



Select two jungle cock eyes.



Tie in one eye on either side of the wing. 



Double back the stems so that the jungle cock doesn't fall out. 



Pluck off the two stalks and then varnish to form a nice head.  I normally go for a coat of clear, a coat of black and then two coats of clear.



And finally a troop of monkeys.



Just got them in on time! 

Cheers

Matt

[Mike Barrio]

Great stuff Kev and Matt ..... excellent step by steps  

Thanks for posting!
Cheers
Mike

[Iain Goolager]

B W Paraloop

Hook:      Kamasan B100 Size 12
Thread:      Olive Sheer sewing thread
Tail:      Grizzle Hackle Fibres
Body:      BWO Turkey Biot
Wing:      Dun Grizzle Hackle
Wing ‘Post’   Grey Aerowing
Thorax:      Natural Squirrel Dubbing

Place the hook in the vise – cant it slightly forward so as to make tying in the tails easier.



 Wax the thread and catch it in. Wind it down the hook shank in touching turns to the tails tie in point.



Select a few hackle fibres for the tail – Offer up and tie in (better than this) – cut the fibres to length (thorax tie in point).



Tie in the turkey biot – at a suitable point on the biot to prevent breaking and wrap down to the tails.



Apply a thin coat of varnish to the hook shank and wind on the turkey biot – tie off and snip excess.



Tie in a section on Aerowing to use as the hackle ‘post’.



Tie in the Dun Grizzle hackle – remove stalk tag.



Use whatever method device to hold the post upright so that the hackle can be wound easily.



Wind the hackle upwards and then back down the post – gauge how much height of post to wrap by the length and bulk of the thorax – tie off the hackle and snip tag end.



Wax the thread and apply the squirrel dubbing.



Pull back the hackle fibres and wind on a suitable thorax.



Pull the post with hackle forward and secure behind the hook eye.



Snip off tag of post, whip finish and varnish.



Iain