Fishing The Fly Scotland
Index => Rod Building => Topic started by: Iain Goolager on 15/08/2011 at 19:12
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Ok, tool making aside I've finally started to get onto the rod build proper.
Handle shaped and reamed, reel seat reamed (ok, so it came with a perfect I.D.).
(http://i55.tinypic.com/2vadyty.jpg)
ready for the glue
(http://i54.tinypic.com/33o06tv.jpg)
Iain
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Looking good Iain :z16
:z18
Jim
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Looks shit hot :z16
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Nice....
You must be satisfied with that so far.
The Bard.
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looking good. That's all the easy bits done though....
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Thanks Matt - that's encouraging :z7
Iain
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Had a couple of hours yesterday so the handle & reel seat are now glued :z
I wasn't sure of the Sage spacings due to reading observations on the net, the fact that the distances are to the extremity of the lower foot of an American snake (maybe getting too anal but I'm using different rings) and because I also moved the stripper ring slightly closer to hand so I decided to use an online calculator to re-adjust the spacings. I then threaded a line through them, gave it a bend and checked the transition of the line - looks fine to me :roll
Today I whipped the section which butts up against the winding check, wrote on my personalised schpeel - whipped either side of that and added a metalic trim at a point 20" from the butt.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/24eq161.jpg)
Probably whip all the rings on next :roll
Iain
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nice work. Was the schpeel by hand?
How did the rig work for whipping on the winding check etc?
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Matt,
the writing was by hand - reasonably happy with it but couldn't get a finer tipped pen in town (could have went online I suppose).
The jig is super, very easy to use and the tension is I think spot on - obviously if you are turning the blank backwards the back tension has to be induced at the spool by ones self but that's fine.
Just hope the epoxy doesn't affect the white ink (removing or thinning it etc.)
I'm really getting impatient and need a fish on it pronto! Time to relax
Iain
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I tried a pen on a broken rod section and didn't like it so used a very fine brush and enamel paint like what you used to use on your model planes in the olden days.... Wipes off with turps and left to dry doesn't affect the paint.
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rod now completely whipped :z18
couple of sticky bits but reasonably pleased with it.
Epoxy on order :z16
Iain
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Epoxying 'signature'
Can I epoxy over my rod signature (written with a white pen - can't recall the paint type at the mo) or should this be sealed with some form of protective rod finish first?
Anywhere local for purchasing denatured alcahol?
Thanks
Iain
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Is common all garden DIY, B&Q methylated spirit denatured alcohol?
:z6
Iain
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Am I a muppet?
yes.
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Why are you looking for a degreaser now? :z8
Should have done it before whipping :z7
Meths smells bad, I like a quick wipe with brake cleaner.
Make it quick though, it stings :shock
Sandy
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Degreasing - no problems
Meths if for drinking once I F*** up the epoxying :z4
It's for tidying up if there is a bit of nastiness with the epoxy, I take it that's what to use to clean the blank if some gets where it shouldn't?
Iain
Brake cleaner? do your rods shatter on the backcast? :z7
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Try the Chemist for your DA...they normally have to order it though if you want 500ml. The last lot i got was around £5.
If you are wanting to epoxy over the writing and you are not sure what the ink is made from, just put on a couple of coats of thread colour preserver. This seals the writing before the epoxy goes on.
For the future, get yourself a "mapping pen" from a craft shop, along with a bottle of white ink. The mapping pen is just a simple fine nib you dip into the ink. Its perfect for writig on rods. You can use it with paint too.
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It's for tidying up if there is a bit of nastiness with the epoxy,
Acetone is what you want for that...again the chemists.
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I'm paceing like an expectant father.........................1st 2 sections epoxied and currently turning :o
(http://i53.tinypic.com/25tfgyg.jpg)
Question, The flexi coat lite was preheated in the airing cupboard, 2.5 of each mixed (under lamps) and must have been given easily 5 min's plus but there was not the 'marbling then clear' as described in the Flexi Coat youtube 'how we mix it' video???
The expoxy that is left in the foil is stiffening up so I was wondering why that was? Have I flipped up?
Iain
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Foil? You're not meant to be injecting the stuff :z6
Why are the mixing cups, brushes and stirring stick still in the packet?
I'm confused :z6
How did you mix the epoxy? It always marbles when you start to stir it
And then it goes clear and is ready to use. Their definition of marbling looks like
You've added the tiniest drop of silver paint to the mix, a bit like a liquid soap. It's hard to describe
But it should mix to clear in about 2 mins by hand, then it's all about air bubbles, that where
The warm helps out, blow on the gently to get them to pop :wink
Sandy
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Why are the mixing cups, brushes and stirring stick still in the packet?
I'm confused
Don't be confused Sandy, when I purchased the epoxy I thought I'd get some spare brushes and cups - F*** me I've loads of them now! that's what you see in the packet. Anyway stop ogling me perifferies.
I mixed it in an approved cup with an approved stirrer. Possibly did see a slight cloudyness but it didn't look as 'milk going into coffee in the adverts swirliness' as shown in the video, either way the 1st coat looks fine, there is one slight foreign spot on a section but it will be sliced and diced when I apply the final coat tonight. Green thread unpreserved dries a nice deep dark shade - cool against the blank. :z16
Fingers crosses Brownies by the weekend!
Iain
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Looking good Iain :z16
Thanks, just what I needed to get me started on my next Project, the "Haddo Special"
a Barrio LC905. :wink :z18
(http://i56.tinypic.com/16a32x2.jpg)
(http://i51.tinypic.com/zkh66o.jpg)
(http://i56.tinypic.com/2wpt3wj.jpg)
(http://i54.tinypic.com/289ymu1.jpg)
Sorry about poor photography, new camera not arrived yet.
Alex
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Alex,
Is that a Danielsson Midge in your avatar? If so how do you find it smoothness wise? I've one for the 2wt and it feels, well, like using a washing machine when you've forgotten to remove the transit brackets.
Iain
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Alex,
Is that a Danielsson Midge in your avatar? If so how do you find it smoothness wise? I've one for the 2wt and it feels, well, like using a washing machine when you've forgotten to remove the transit brackets.
Iain
Hi Iain
Yes it is a Danielsson Midge, not mine however, it belongs to Andre, the guy in South Africa
who has the "Elandspad Special" I built for him, he says it is like a watch & i've
seen him cast with it & it is beautiful and smooth.
Alex
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Alex,
Is that your credit cards on the table in the second photo? I've just zoomed in on the numbers and just bought some new waders on the net - cheers :z16
Second coat of epoxy on the 1st 2 sections...............really piddled off I didn't get another rod turner as that could be all the sections epoxied by now :mad
will definately get another one for the next rod (that's if this one is a success in operation).
By the way Sandy that marbling effect was seen tonight when mixing, must have been looking for too drastic a clouding last time
Iain
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Hi Iain
No those were Nordic Hotels loyalty cards which I was about to shred!!! Sorry
Alex
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Looking forward to seeing how your rod turns out Iain. I also epoxied mine tonight...well first coat on all 4 sections of the rod. I didnt use a turner, just a cardboard box with v's.
Didn't take as long as i thought to coat..already looking forward to applying the next coat tomorrow night!
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Exciting times Toshkerr :z16
Is it a massive pain using the cardboard box method and how long are you planning to turn the rod by hand for?
Are you drying your rod fully made up, in 2 sections or 4 sections?
Iain
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Alex,
Is that a Danielsson Midge in your avatar? If so how do you find it smoothness wise? I've one for the 2wt and it feels, well, like using a washing machine when you've forgotten to remove the transit brackets.
Iain
Iain
The danielsson reels stay silky smooth provided you release all the tension on the centre screw after every use.
If you leave the reel with bearings under pressure then the reels very quickly become rough it's like accelerated brinelling
It only takes a few days to affect them, the only weakness to the design, but it can be avoided :z16
If yours is rough now, remove the spool and try soaking the bearings in a bath of warm oil for a bit and then exercise each one by hand until they feel a bit better, take a bit of time and you might recover them. Check the inner rim of the spool for smoothness to make sure it has no dents or indentations from the bearings. Good luck
They are great wee reels and I hope you can recover it.
Sandy
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I dried my four sections seperately Iain. Just made sure each section was level in the box and turned them every 5minutes or so for the first hour, then every 10-15 mins for a few hours after. It wasn't such a problem at all really using a box. When i checked them before work this morning they were all set hard - i dont know why but i actually expected them to be slightly tacky, i suppose it had been about 12 hours.
I put my first coat on thin, just made sure i soaked the thread really and spread it over all the wrapping, so there wasn't really any sagging of the epoxy going on at all really. i presume the next coat i do tonight i will have to keep a close eye on though as the epoxy wont have thread to soak into!
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Toshkerr,
Inspired by your advancement I waited until the first 2 sections (joined together) had turned for a couple of hours then I threw it on my stands to turn by hand as I joined the 2 top sections and 1st coated them - they turned on the turner all night.
That means final coat on the top 2 sections tonight - dry all night - all thursday - all thursday night THEN
RIVER DON ON FRIDAY FOR BROWN TROUTING!!!!!!!!!!
bet I get knocked down on the way to the river :z19 :grin
Iain
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bet I get knocked down on the way to the river :z19 :grin
Iain
Just let me know which way you are going & make sure you save the rod :z4 :z4 :z4 :wink
Alex
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That means final coat on the top 2 sections tonight - dry all night - all thursday - all thursday night THEN
RIVER DON ON FRIDAY FOR BROWN TROUTING!!!!!!!!!!
Iain,
I'm not sure what Sandy or Alex would suggest but I normally leave mine for at least three or four days before casting in case the epoxy isn't properly hardened and cracks or crazes when you cast it.
Matt
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I'd give the rod at least 2 days to harden off properly after the last coat, before i would use it.
I don't think it would need much longer to be fair, But its what you feel comfy with and how much patience you have :z4
Any more, certainly wouldn't hurt.
but I WOULD give it the 2 days at least before taking it out :z18.
Sandy
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Iain
I'm with Sandy all the way on this one, :z16 I would not be looking to cast a rod epoxied
on Wednesday night untill at least Saturday, I know you will be dying to cast it & catch
a fish on it but the possibility of causing damage to the epoxy by rushiing the final step
is really not worth it. :z18
Alex
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I flippin' knew it! you trio of baps are determined to spoil my fun! :mad
I'll wager you guys buy your offspring toys for Christmas without buying the batteries just to see the dissapointment on their little faces
:mad :mad :roll :z6 :grin :z4 :cool: :z16
Sunday It'll be then
Iain
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I flippin' knew it! you trio of baps are determined to spoil my fun! :mad
I'll wager you guys buy your offspring toys for Christmas without buying the batteries just to see the dissapointment on their little faces
:mad :mad :roll :z6 :grin :z4 :cool: :z16
Sunday It'll be then
Iain
Save it till saturday then iain, it will look good loaded up with a Di5 :wink
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Iain,
As far as I know I don't have any offspring but I'll remember that trick for the wife at chritmas. She won't be happy with a rabbit without batteries ;)
On the rod front. No pictures = it didn't happen!
Cheers
Matt
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Ah Give Iain a break Matt :wink
He is probably busy trying to nick his kids batteries out of his toys,
so he cat get his camera working. :z4 :z4 :z4
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As far as I know I don't have any offspring but I'll remember that trick for the wife at chritmas. She won't be happy with a rabbit without batteries ;)
Alex
Matt obviously has his own problems :wink mind you if he pulls a stunt like that then I'm sure he
Might stand a chance with the offspring issue. :z7
Sandy
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Well gents that's the fishing rod complete.
This was only ever meant to be so that I could say that I've done it and perhaps add comment to other peoples posts on rod building but it turned into a long journey of jig making and side projects.
On reflection I probably should have gone for a cheap blank for the first one, that said I really can't wait to cast and catch a fish with it, hopefully it will be my 'go to' river and small stillwater rod.
There were a lot of positives (which will only be truly borne out in the field) and a few lows or points to learn from.
The part which I feel could be improved was the epoxying.
I struggled to get a level equal coat/ finish on the long section over the Wrap - Signature - Wrap. I felt that the epoxy didn't seem as thin as I thought it'd be. I expected things to self level fairly easily and it wasn't the case.
All in all I've learned quite a bit - the biggest bit is to be patient, something that isn't free flowing at the moment.
As said I'm very glad I've done it and have the ultimate respect for guys that produce clinically bespoke rods.
Roll on Sunday :z16
Iain
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(http://i53.tinypic.com/24uymvc.jpg)
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looks great iain!
well done! :z16
i decided to do a wee bit more epoxy work on mine, so should be complete by tomorrow!! :grin
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Thanks Jonathan :z16
Iain
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Are you brininging it on Saturday to give us a look Iain ? Is it the VXP blank ? Looks great anyway, well done. I admire your skill and patience.
:z18
Jim
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Yup,
I can bring it to show you. Really don't know about the skill and can defo dismiss the patience part (that'll be fine) was whispered a fair few times.
Iain
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Looks good man :z16 I will throw a critical eye over it on saturday :z4 Looking forward to having a few practice casts on the don with these huge lead eyed streamers I just got. No need to worry I had a casting lesson recently so the blank should be safe.
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I will throw a critical eye over it on saturday
Aye, once you get them fixed Mr Wonky! :shock
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Ian
Nice job. :z16
Hope it casts as well as it looks
Irvine
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Irene,
Looks good! I think you are being a bit hard on yourself reference the epoxy. I know from personal experience that you want to make it perfect and that any slight blemish is like a kick in the baws when inspecting the rod ones its off the dryer. However I think if you take a trip into a local tackle shop and pick some of the most expensive rods off of the racks and look at the whippings and the epoxy you'll see slight blemishes and tag ends galore! And you definately won't be thinking about it as you use it to launch one of your monster klinks out and hook a don brownie!
hopefully see it soon!
Matt
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Well Done Iain :z18
What's your next Build going to be...And don't say there wont be another one because there will. :wink
Alex
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Alex,
I will be building another rod this year but what, I don't know :z8
It'll either be a 1wt (TXL-F), possibly a 5wt but I think a 3wt is what would be most usefull to me?
Anyone own/cast/ fished a Z-Axis in 3wt any length? I had a 4wt in 9' 6" but couldn't wait to offload it as it just didn't set me alight, heard that the 3wt is a different beast. :z8
Iain
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Iain
If you are planning a 9ft 3wt, then look no further than Mike's LC blank :wink its the best 3wt blank on the market by far, 3 piece still fits in the boot too :z16 the next best is the 8ft6" winston B111x, IMHO :z16. (GVX might be well worth a look too :wink fantastic value for money)
I'll be bringing back a TFO TciX 9ft 5wt and TCX 9ft 6wt blanks with me, that will be up for grabs probably about the end of november, i have no requirement for them now i'm back home, so if either of them are interesting to you, drop me a line.
See you all soon
Sandy
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Thanks Sandy :z16
Iain
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Nice job Iain,
How much do you reckon it cost to get all the kit for carrying out the job excluding the blanks and rod components ect??
Obviously the more rods you build the cheaper it gets as you will have all the kit for your next rod :z18
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Baz
1 old shoe box, a scalpel blade and a rat tailed file :wink
So not very much :z7
Sandy
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So nothing to ream corks and rod turners ect?? ???
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Hi Bart,
I'm currently in the process of ordering up stuff for another build so will need my kit sometime soon, possibly, but I can help you out with some bits and pieces and give you the use of my lathe :z4 wrapping /turning jig (which I'm currently making into a 2 section turner - or should I say 4 section - 2 motors anyway)
Are you planning to turn your corks by hand?
I have to go but will reply in depth later
By the way I just bought razor blades so that's one item less you'll need :z16
Iain
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Hi Iain
What you need to build yourself is one of these
(http://i53.tinypic.com/2mhsl7o.jpg)
Alex
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Alex,
I did look at one of those rod driers and it's a fair thing but doubted if I could justify the price.
I've been round the houses with this project and due to the inability to find low rpm DC motors (without going to China :z8), suitable low cost chucks & other components I have bought another Stonefly rod turner and plan to settle on the two of these sitting close together on a plinth on my jig..................I'll post a picture sometime this week as It wont take too long to complete.
I did notice that my original Stonefly turner still has the price on the box and it was £28.00 back in 2008?, the one recently purchased was £24.00, that's surely bucking a trend :z16
One thing about the multi drier, do you use the bottom turner to epoxy a section of rod then transfer it to the top turner to dry, then epoxy another section in the bottom turner & transfer it to the second top turner, etc. 'till the rod is completely epoxied? I guess I'm asking if you use it when applying varnish or just purely for drying?
Iain
p.s hurry up and choose a brown blank! :z4
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Hi Iain
I epoxy on the drier on all 4 levels but use an old sign painting trick to allow me to have a steady position
to apply the epoxy.
I have already chosen my Blank (Blue) :wink
What you need to do is go to your local re-cycling centre & get 4 micrwave motors :wink
Alex