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Fishing The Fly In Aberdeenshire, Scotland
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Author Topic: Turning Rod Handles  (Read 3439 times)
Goolager
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« Reply #15 on: June 27, 2011, 15:33:59 PM »

Maddeus,

Blank ordered from China the USA, went for the VXP.

Iain
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An Chuileog
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« Reply #16 on: July 02, 2011, 22:53:45 PM »

I go away for 2 weeks and come back to see the world is going mad!! Sandy is moving home Huh? Iain is building rods eek Whatever next?
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Spiderman
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« Reply #17 on: July 03, 2011, 01:26:00 AM »

I go away for 2 weeks and come back to see the world is going mad!! Sandy is moving home Huh? Iain is building rods eek Whatever next?

So it's your fault wink

whatever next is you gonna have to teach me how to catch Don broonies again stick tongue out

ahhhh.......heaven , I can't wait Cool dude

sandy
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Goolager
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« Reply #18 on: July 04, 2011, 12:33:37 PM »

Handle glued yesterday and I think I have the use of a lathe for turning  oops! Oh no what have I done!

Iain
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Goolager
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« Reply #19 on: July 05, 2011, 19:42:44 PM »

I decided to use the handle that I'd glued as a test piece, not having formed cork before, so I took it to work and decided to place the mandrel in a pedestal drill  eek
I thought about centre dabbing the threaded bar and seeing what I could use as a vertical tailstock?? Anyway it was almost starting time after faffing about so I decided to insert the mandrel in the chuck and grip a nut in the drill vise which had an ID close to the mandrel OD.
OK it's Michael Mouse but I had this itch.

Anyway after using a file I formed a rough outline...................one of the workshop guys came over for a look and he said 'oh! for the love of luck' or somethink like that.

Shortly after I took some dry wall sanding sheets - IT WAS ALL I HAD, and started to smooth things off. Well I never! things started to come together even though the rubberised cork was a piglet to keep at the same diameter as the cork.

I feel confident that with the corks in a centred lathe and a calipered template at hand I could make a nice handle.

Here's what I came up with, noting it was totally formed with no template dimensions and the finished profile is obviously not complete.
I used the two rubberised inboard inserts as a wee experiment as they are not the inserts that I want on my blank.



What do you think, any tips?

Iain
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Easgach 1
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« Reply #20 on: July 05, 2011, 19:58:23 PM »

I use a Dremel type thing for the recess, but its as well to by a preformed handle, and ream it to suit the blank, I built 2 3wts this winter past, one of them I recovered a handle from a broken rod, I heated a  steel rod on the gas and inserted it up the tube leave it for 3or4 minutes and then push the handle up the broken rod I also got the reel winch , both in good nick , easgach1
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mdh
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« Reply #21 on: July 06, 2011, 10:27:50 AM »

Iain,

For the rubberised stuff in amongst the normal stuff the obvious problem is that the normal stuff is much softer than the rubberised stuff.  So it's hard to get uniform OD as you mention.  What you need is some of these....

http://www.boots.com/en/Boots-Longlife-Emery-Boards-5-Pack_1114963/

Also a set of these is good too

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9372228&fh_location=//catalog01/en_GB/categories%3C{9372015}/categories%3C{9372043}/categories%3C{9372176}/categories%3C{9392045}/specificationsProductType=files

The metal files are good for the feet of the guides once you get to that stage too. 

what you want for the rubberised bits is a hard sanding surface so that when you hold the file all the materials wear to the same surface rather than dependant on their wear rate as happens with sandpaper or emery cloth. 

Cheers

Matt
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Easgach 1
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« Reply #22 on: July 06, 2011, 12:12:27 PM »

I picked up a set of diamond needle file excellent for hard material, I make my own emery boards by gluing various
grades of wet and dry paper to thin flat wood, easgach1
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mdh
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« Reply #23 on: July 06, 2011, 12:43:36 PM »

I found for shaping things then the diamond files and the emery boards are fine, but once you get up to 400/600grit then changing the OD takes quite a lot of effort. 
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Easgach 1
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« Reply #24 on: July 06, 2011, 19:38:24 PM »

I use 1200 grit for various applications but its on a plastic base and hard to glue, easgach 1
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Goolager
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« Reply #25 on: August 10, 2011, 22:27:23 PM »

Sandy, Matt,

reference cutting the recessed hole to accept the reel seat 'hood'.............
I tried a 20mm broach yesterday, which magically has a 6mm centre pilot dab type thing so keeps everything true.

The rubberised cork was a little sticky but once that was tweaked the cork was a dawdle and within 10 - 15 seconds I had a neat looking, centred, shop bought internal bore that the hood slipped into nicely, it also leaves a rough ID for the glue to key against.
It was twisted by hand - absolutely no lathes or drills required





Top find!

Iain   
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Mike Barrio
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« Reply #26 on: August 10, 2011, 23:11:17 PM »

Nice, very nice! thumbs up

Cheers
Mike
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