Fishing The Fly Scotland Forum

Dave Bisset

Braided Loops.
« on: 09/08/2010 at 16:57 »
When I attach a braided loop to my fly line I put a tiny drop of super glue on the top of the loop before sliding the sleeve into place, however, after a few days the the sleeve wears through the outer coating of the line due to the constant flexing when casting. Any advice or suggestions on how to overcome this problem would be greatly appreciated,
Thanks,
              Dave.

Hamish Young

Re: Braided Loops.
« Reply #1 on: 09/08/2010 at 17:44 »
I should immediately declare that I hate braided loops  :mad however they are a (sometimes) necessary evil.
Firstly I use quite long braided loops, mainly because I think the short ones are gash and really only suitable for use where presentation isn't an issue (so mainly on sinking lines for me).

The way I fix them is to firstly stretch the braided line over the end of the fly line and down as far as it will go until the end of the line is butting the braided loop proper. I then use three of maybe four fixing spots with waterproof superglue spread  at roughly even intervals over the length of the braided section, but never at the loop end - I think it just causes issues at the end of the line to whack on a chunk of glue so from the loop back down the fly line I leave around 2 inches (miniumum) before I 'fix' the braid in place.

Once all of that has set I then take the silicone tubing down over the end of the braided line, sometimes I put a wee drop of glue here too to make sure that it stays in place.

Et voila :! nicely fixed braided loops that don't eat the end of the fly line.

Ofcourse, I'm tempted to say just fit a nice tapered leader instead - much better :wink

H :z3

Irvine Ross

Re: Braided Loops.
« Reply #2 on: 09/08/2010 at 17:45 »
Dave

Sorry for stating the obvious but - stop  using braided loops.

This subject has come up before and here's a link to Ben's take on the subject

http://www.fishingthefly.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2220.0

I just nail knot the butt section of a tapered leader onto the end of the line then put a tippet ring in about half way down the tapered leader. Most of the time I only have to replace the leader below the tippet ring. If I need to knot in another butt section I have only lost about 1" off the end of the fly line.

Cheers
Irvine

Ben Dixon

Re: Braided Loops.
« Reply #3 on: 09/08/2010 at 23:51 »
Hi Dave,

The only good thing about them is that they give a quick way of making a connection in the end of the line.  They spray when casting which I personally don't like and even when properly fitted will hinge a bit when used with polyleaders. 

When I use them I keep them as short as possible, no more than an inch of braid on the end of the line but as Hamish says, make sure the end of the line is butted right up to the root of the loop.  I don't like a sleeve at all, I whip the top of the loop to the flyline with tying thread and thinly aquasure it making sure the aqusure runs about 1cm past the whipping onto the flyline to make a flexible connection.  This does not tend to cause cracks in the line.  Best bet is either to whip a loop in the flyline or, nail knot a 6" butt section of mono onto the line and put a perfection loop in that then loop to loop a tapered leader to that.

Cheers

Ben

gunner100

Re: Braided Loops.
« Reply #4 on: 12/08/2010 at 22:12 »
I have been a fan of braided loops for years . So much so that I make my own. As Hamish and others have said one inch from the fly line is enough.

To prevent the "hingeing" effect on the braided loop/fly line connection I use two silicone tubes. The first one is the standard at the top pf the braid to the fly line to secure it. The second silicone tube covers the join where the braid and fly join. This stops the flexing and potential wear /hingeing on the  the fly line.

It is important that the fly line is inserted to the braid as far as it can go, ie to where the braid doubles back and it is on that join that you fit the second silicone tube.


Lyall

 




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